In the garden, and RAIN!!!!
POSTED BY: SIGNYM
UPDATED: Thursday, December 25, 2025 04:27
VIEWED: 1005090
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Quote:This is about what I expected.
Originally posted by JEWELSTAITEFAN:Quote:
Originally posted by 6IXSTRINGJACK:Quote:
Originally posted by JEWELSTAITEFAN:
6ix,
I didn't realize your blower fan was known to be wonky. I had understood that it was not functioning adequately by your list of symptoms, but didn't know it has never been set correctly to function correctly.
Well... It's not wonky, per se. When the people who lived here before me got foreclosed on, they took a lot of stuff with them. I'm assuming they screwed the furnace up bad when they took out the A/C unit and all the copper right up to the blower. The wiring was bad and the furnace just didn't work at all. I don't remember all the details all these years later and what all I needed to do to get it to work, but it was pretty detailed.
When I say that it's not wonky... That's not to say that it's set up correctly,Quote:
Fixing that should fix most of the problems you have. Skip the rest until you get that going.
I don't know about that. There still is the issue of a much less than adequite return system, as well as the blower not putting much force on the hot air by the time it hits the vents, but sure, we'll try this first. :)Quote:
What is yours currently set at? The settings/pointers/needles should have one in a lower range of numbers, and the other in a higher range of numbers.
Your answer here will tell me what is next.
There's actually three settings. (Refer to the picture above to see all three as that picture is very similar to mine). Many years ago I could tell you what they all did, but I've lost that knowledge in the ether without ever having any use for it again.
I just checked it, and the three "needles" are pointed at 100, 130 and 180. (180 seems to be the maximum for the high end. The unit has higher numbers than that, but there is a piece of metal that is there which seems designed to block you from setting it any higher).Quote:
Regarding your thermometers, either should work fine. Use both of them in the same spot, and assuming they have the same reading, there is your proof.
Cool.
Do Right, Be Right. :)
Before changing your settings, do the following when you feel up to it. No hurry yet, since it is not cold by you.
Prep for the following steps before actually doing them.
1. Wait until the furnace has been off at least 20 minutes. You can force this situation by turning your thermostat down for this time.
2. Force the thermostat to command the furnace on, and check the time. Best to start this at the top of a minute, unless you have a stopwatch. You can force this command by turning the thermostat up 5-10 degrees above current room temp for this test.
3. Quickly scoot up to your furnace, and listen for when your blower fan turns on. Your furnace will have an combustion fan running while it warms up, and then when warmed up should kick on the blower fan. Notate how many minutes elapsed between Command On and blower fan start. While waiting for this, try to find the warmest surface of the furnace and use a thermometer to measure the temp there. This will not be the actual internal temp that we are looking for, but it will be an indicator. Notate what is the highest temp is at the moment the blower fan turns on.
4. Record these numbers for future comparison, repeat the test to confirm if you choose. Return thermostat to normal.
After that, you can change the needle settings.
I would move your lowest needle down to 90. If like the unit in the picture, be sure to hold the dial assembly from turning or twisting while you move needles. Gently using a fine needlenose might help you adjust them if they are sticky.
The second needle can be left at 130 if you choose, or if room could be nudged to 135 or 140.
Leave the high one alone.
This should be much more efficient. Since you now know your furnace is heating your 1st & 2nd floors to the set temps, now you
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brenda:
And we are back.
Now at 8pm, someone has decided to do their washing. Oh joy. That means that my toilet won't flush now.
As sorry as I feel for you Brenda, I have to look at the bright side here and think that you're very lucky that this isn't YOUR house. The electrical and plumbing work sound absolutely abysmal. If that house was going to be sold in one of the south Chicago suburbs I was initially looking into, they couldn't even put it on the market until all of that was brought up to code unless they wanted to sell it at a rock bottom price and list it "as is". In that case, the person or entity who bought it would have additional paperwork from the city added to their loan contract stating they had 90 days to fix it themselves and that nobody could even live in the home until it was completed and verified by a code inspector. Of course, all of the work done would have to be completed by a very high priced licensed and bonded union professional as well.
I know it doesn't really help you out at all, but at least you can be happy knowing that when you can finally get out of there you'll be able to wash your hands of the problem entirely.
This also gives me an idea.
If you really want to stick it to them for what they've put you through, you could probably make it pretty hard for them to sell the house just by being a little savvy about it online and make it known how many problems the house has so when somebody does a search on the address they might stumble on that info and hopefully not be screwed by these idiots that are no doubt going to do whatever they can to cover up the problems until after the contracts are iron clad and the money has been transferred.
I'm not sure how different Canada's laws might be, but I don't believe that buyers in the US have much protection after the fact, and that is why it is HIGHLY suggested that you have a reputable home inspector check everything out before signing anything.
Any home inspector worth his or her salt should be able to warn a potential buyer of these issues, but some people try to save money and skip the inspection altogether. You could be saving some poor young naive couple's livelihood and get the satisfaction of making hell for your landlord in the process. :)
I'd recommend caution how you go about putting this info out, obviously, if you're still living there while they try to sell it though.
If you're ever interested in doing this, let me know when the time comes.
I'm a fan of mischief, and have been known from time to time to be quite good at creating it. ;)
Do Right, Be Right. :)
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I told you if you posted or promoted fake or doctored pictures and or videos I would post them here. This video does not reflect a single action but instead the same action is repeated over and over again. Nice work comrade troll...
T 
Quote:
Originally posted by SIGNYM:
It bears repeating
-----------
Pity would be no more,
If we did not MAKE men poor - William Blake
"The messy American environment, where most people don't agree, is perfect for people like me. I CAN DO AS I PLEASE." - SECOND
America is an oligarchy http://www.fireflyfans.net/mthread.aspx?tid=57876 .
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6IXSTRINGJACK:Quote:This is about what I expected.
Originally posted by JEWELSTAITEFAN:Quote:
Originally posted by 6IXSTRINGJACK:Quote:
Originally posted by JEWELSTAITEFAN:
6ix,
I didn't realize your blower fan was known to be wonky. I had understood that it was not functioning adequately by your list of symptoms, but didn't know it has never been set correctly to function correctly.
Well... It's not wonky, per se. When the people who lived here before me got foreclosed on, they took a lot of stuff with them. I'm assuming they screwed the furnace up bad when they took out the A/C unit and all the copper right up to the blower. The wiring was bad and the furnace just didn't work at all. I don't remember all the details all these years later and what all I needed to do to get it to work, but it was pretty detailed.
When I say that it's not wonky... That's not to say that it's set up correctly,Quote:
Fixing that should fix most of the problems you have. Skip the rest until you get that going.
I don't know about that. There still is the issue of a much less than adequite return system, as well as the blower not putting much force on the hot air by the time it hits the vents, but sure, we'll try this first. :)Quote:
What is yours currently set at? The settings/pointers/needles should have one in a lower range of numbers, and the other in a higher range of numbers.
Your answer here will tell me what is next.
There's actually three settings. (Refer to the picture above to see all three as that picture is very similar to mine). Many years ago I could tell you what they all did, but I've lost that knowledge in the ether without ever having any use for it again.
I just checked it, and the three "needles" are pointed at 100, 130 and 180. (180 seems to be the maximum for the high end. The unit has higher numbers than that, but there is a piece of metal that is there which seems designed to block you from setting it any higher).Quote:
Regarding your thermometers, either should work fine. Use both of them in the same spot, and assuming they have the same reading, there is your proof.
Cool.
Do Right, Be Right. :)
Before changing your settings, do the following when you feel up to it. No hurry yet, since it is not cold by you.
Prep for the following steps before actually doing them.
1. Wait until the furnace has been off at least 20 minutes. You can force this situation by turning your thermostat down for this time.
2. Force the thermostat to command the furnace on, and check the time. Best to start this at the top of a minute, unless you have a stopwatch. You can force this command by turning the thermostat up 5-10 degrees above current room temp for this test.
3. Quickly scoot up to your furnace, and listen for when your blower fan turns on. Your furnace will have an combustion fan running while it warms up, and then when warmed up should kick on the blower fan. Notate how many minutes elapsed between Command On and blower fan start. While waiting for this, try to find the warmest surface of the furnace and use a thermometer to measure the temp there. This will not be the actual internal temp that we are looking for, but it will be an indicator. Notate what is the highest temp is at the moment the blower fan turns on.
4. Record these numbers for future comparison, repeat the test to confirm if you choose. Return thermostat to normal.
After that, you can change the needle settings.
I would move your lowest needle down to 90. If like the unit in the picture, be sure to hold the dial assembly from turning or twisting while you move needles. Gently using a fine needlenose might help you adjust them if they are sticky.
The second needle can be left at 130 if you choose, or if room could be nudged to 135 or 140.
Leave the high one alone.
This should be much more efficient. Since you now know your furnace is heating yourNOTIFY: Y | REPLY | REPLY WITH QUOTE | PERMALINK | TOP | HOME
Quote:
Originally posted by 6IXSTRINGJACK:Quote:
Originally posted by Brenda:
And we are back.
Now at 8pm, someone has decided to do their washing. Oh joy. That means that my toilet won't flush now.
As sorry as I feel for you Brenda, I have to look at the bright side here and think that you're very lucky that this isn't YOUR house. The electrical and plumbing work sound absolutely abysmal. If that house was going to be sold in one of the south Chicago suburbs I was initially looking into, they couldn't even put it on the market until all of that was brought up to code unless they wanted to sell it at a rock bottom price and list it "as is". In that case, the person or entity who bought it would have additional paperwork from the city added to their loan contract stating they had 90 days to fix it themselves and that nobody could even live in the home until it was completed and verified by a code inspector. Of course, all of the work done would have to be completed by a very high priced licensed and bonded union professional as well.
I know it doesn't really help you out at all, but at least you can be happy knowing that when you can finally get out of there you'll be able to wash your hands of the problem entirely.
This also gives me an idea.
If you really want to stick it to them for what they've put you through, you could probably make it pretty hard for them to sell the house just by being a little savvy about it online and make it known how many problems the house has so when somebody does a search on the address they might stumble on that info and hopefully not be screwed by these idiots that are no doubt going to do whatever they can to cover up the problems until after the contracts are iron clad and the money has been transferred.
I'm not sure how different Canada's laws might be, but I don't believe that buyers in the US have much protection after the fact, and that is why it is HIGHLY suggested that you have a reputable home inspector check everything out before signing anything.
Any home inspector worth his or her salt should be able to warn a potential buyer of these issues, but some people try to save money and skip the inspection altogether. You could be saving some poor young naive couple's livelihood and get the satisfaction of making hell for your landlord in the process. :)
I'd recommend caution how you go about putting this info out, obviously, if you're still living there while they try to sell it though.
If you're ever interested in doing this, let me know when the time comes.
I'm a fan of mischief, and have been known from time to time to be quite good at creating it. ;)
Do Right, Be Right. :)
If I actually owned the place it wouldn't be in this kind of shape because I wouldn't have been stupid enough to build 2 suites into the place.
I am sure this was a nice little house before they went and did all of this illegal building, which is why the plumbing is going now and the wiring.
The only people I think that would buy this place is a developer and all they would do is pull it all down and then rebuild. That actually has been happening a lot in my city over this year. I can think of 5 spots that's happened in all within walking or busing distance of me.
The only people who know how bad this place is are people that I know and BC Housing.
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Quote:
Originally posted by JEWELSTAITEFAN:
Those definitions sound more correct. Don't know why that picture shows 125 for the middle pointer.
Most folk are not like you and me, they keep the thermostat much closer to 80. For them the 90 and 100 are fine.
For you, I would say 80 and 90.
Did you time the delay between Command On and blower fan start? This is a real world number, and the rest of this is theoretical troubleshooting.
Think of how much fuel you burned Warming up the furnace and the roof shingles, instead of the house. Most places likely don't care so much, when the furnace is in the basement. But in the attic the heat rises rule didn't help you.
I did a little test this morning before I went to bed and the results weren't good at all. (I didn't think that I just randomly picked numbers...)
I put it at 90 and 120 to start, and the results were not good at all. This might be indicative of other problems with the whole system.
The plenum just isn't hot enough at those numbers. The whole process was longer than usual, and once the temperature got to 72 the blower kept going and I was watching the temp at the thermostat go down to 69 in just a few minutes while it was still on, requiring the next process to start much quicker than it would have.
Do Right, Be Right. :)
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I recall being told of a problem with my heat exchange many years back when I had signed up for a program to have my local gas/electric company "upgrade" my house to make it more energy efficient. This was a program for people who made under poverty level. I was told at first that I'd be getting a new furnace, but when they saw evidence of the prior flooding in the basement they decided they wouldn't be doing anything... replacing the furnace or otherwise.
I appealed that decision, and the guy had to come back out with his boss a few months later. They reversed their decision at that point, but because of the government shutdown said there was no money and they wouldn't be doing anything. After that, I just said "fuck it" and didn't bother trying to have them back. I think I was just being turned down because I was a white male.
Long story short, after reading an article on a bad heat exchange being a cause of CO2 emissions, and then reading about symptoms of prolonged chronic CO2 exposure, I'm beginning to think this would explain a LOT. From my chronic fatigue and joint pain in the winter, up to and even including my depression and excessive drinking.
This furnace might literally be killing me, and is now at the top of the list of things I need to pay for. In the spring I need to make sure the basement is set up with a second sump well on a battery backup and that everything there works so I won't have any flooding, then I need to get a furnace installed.
Here's the article on CO2 emissions: https://www.whippleplumbing.com/low-exposure-carbon-monoxide-poisoning/
Do Right, Be Right. :)
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Hey there 6!
You can pick up CO (carbon monoxide) detectors at your local hardware store for pretty cheap. (Far cheaper than a new furnace.) Here's one example. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-Plug-In-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector-wit
h-AA-Battery-Backup-21027451/205423758
I got a few for various relatives' homes for x-mas a few years back because they had gas furnaces. (That's the kind of x-mas gift I tend to give. HO HO HO ...)
When it comes to furnaces ... have you looked into ductless heat pumps? They are super efficient as heaters, and then you reverse them and use them as AC in the summer. Here's one example. https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/technology
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1kiki:
Hey there 6!
You can pick up CO (carbon monoxide) detectors at your local hardware store for pretty cheap. (Far cheaper than a new furnace.) Here's one example. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-Plug-In-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector-wit
h-AA-Battery-Backup-21027451/205423758
I got a few for various relatives' homes for x-mas a few years back because they had gas furnaces. (That's the kind of x-mas gift I tend to give. HO HO HO ...)
When it comes to furnaces ... have you looked into ductless heat pumps? They are super efficient as heaters, and then you reverse them and use them as AC in the summer. Here's one example. https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/technology
Yeah. I thought about that while I was at work tonight. I know I have a CO2 detector somewhere, but for some reason it's not where I installed it in the attic many years ago after I "fixed" the furnace. Who knows? Maybe it actually went off one night and I broke it while I was drinking. I have no other explanation, and I have zero memory of where it could have gone.
It occurs to me that the attic might not be the best place for it anyhow. I can see why I would have thought that was a good idea at the time, but it would probably be better to have it in the living area where the vents are actually putting out the air instead of 3 feet away from the furnace.
Those heaters/coolers look pretty sweet. Any idea how much they run? I'm also curious if I could pick them up and install them myself somehow and save a bundle on labor since it probably shouldn't require all of the code enforcement that traditional furnaces would.
Do Right, Be Right. :)
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Originally posted by Sig
This thread is not about Trump's competence. To bring the discussion back to its OP...
-----------
Pity would be no more,
If we did not MAKE men poor - William Blake
"The messy American environment, where most people don't agree, is perfect for people like me. I CAN DO AS I PLEASE." - SECOND
America is an oligarchy http://www.fireflyfans.net/mthread.aspx?tid=57876 .
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